Sicilian Cannoli

INGREDIENTS

• 1/8 teaspoon baking soda
• Garnish: confectioners sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon orange-flower water (also called orange-blossom water)
• 1 cup all-purpose flour plus additional for dusting
• 1 lb cold lard
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 lb fresh ricotta (2 cups)
• 1/3 cup shelled unsalted pistachios (not dyed red), chopped
• 1 large egg, separated
• 1 tablespoon minced candied orange peel
• 1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch-process)
• About 3 cups vegetable oil
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 2 oz soft mild goat cheese
• 1/4 cup confectioners sugar
• 2 tablespoons sweet Marsala wine
• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 2 oz bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened), chopped (1/2 cup)